912 Restoration
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How about some inspiration?

912s Win at Australian Porsche 50th Parade!From: Joseph Armstrong; November 1998 ; josepharmstrong@one.net.au; G'day Rick, Just got back from the Australian Porsche 50th celebration tour. Yesterday's parade, there were 850 privately owned Porsches in total, & from the pre '73  911/912, three 912s' came gold & silver. Mine was the silver. Attached is one of the pictures taken on the Australian Porsche 50th celebrations. As I mentioned earlier, the 912s' won gold & silver placing. My car is the one on the right (the only one w/ fog lights). It just shows you that you don't need a 6 cylinder to be a winner.  Later mate !  Regards, Joseph Armstrong

What were the original specifications for my 912/ 912E?

Porsche Cars North America offers a Certificate of Authentiticy through their Customer Committment Headquarters.  Their advertisement in the January 1997 Porsche Club of America Panorama states in part: "...you can document this timelessness by having you Porsche's original factory kardex specifications retrieved from the archives in Ludwigsburg and printed on a genuine certificate of authenticity. Each certificate is suitable for framing and provides an owner with valuble restoration and resale information. Certificates of Autenticity can be purchased by sending a check or money order for $30 (please include proof of ownership) to Porsche Cars North America, Inc., Customer Committment Headquarters.... Please allow 6-12 weeks for research and delivery".  Note:  Porsche NA has recently announced the relocation of their Reno headquarters, to confirm the United States mailing address call 1/800-PORSCHE for more info.

Where can I obtain detailed restoration information?

Numerous books and manuals are available for restoration reference.  One outstanding example is Dr. Brett Johnson's The 911 and 912 Porsche-A Restorer's Guide to Authenticity Volume 1 (1964-1973); and for 912E owners, Mark S. Haab's The 911, 912E and 930 Porsche  Volume 2 (1974-1989), Beeman Jorgensen, Inc. publishers.

A great help in restoration is the Porsche factory Spare Parts books.  Copies are available for purchase.  These books lists and illustrates parts for the entire car, plus shows the relationship between parts.  Part numbers are cross-referenced to illustrations, making ordering of replacement parts much easier.

What is the estimated value of my 912?  Check the Valuation page.

What's it like to repaint a 912?  Visit the Paint Shop!

Want to prevent rust in your 912?  Click to read 912 owner comments!

Need to restore your 912 upholstery?  Click to read 912 owner experiences.


912 Owners Restoration Postings - Following are posting from owners.  To read the most recent 912 enthusiasts' comments, go to the InterActive! page.

Webmeister: Jeanette Ahlgren managed to find a mint '68 dashboard...as noted below

From: JMAhlgren; JMAhlgren@aol.com; Good morning Rick!  There's a place in Grants Pass (OR) that recovers dashes. This place has been recommended by Jim Pasha to recover my '78 924's dash. I will be going through with this, and Jim has offered to install it (and take pictures). This will be an article probably for Excellence mag. I will let you know how the re-covered dash compares to a OEM, as the '80 931S's dash is still uncracked. The place is "Just Dashes", if you want to go ahead and get a quote. I have NO idea WHY the guy sold us such a beautiful '68 dash, as they are so rare. He could have gotten three times the price we paid, but then, this is Nemo's world, and this little car is quite magical.  Also, what Nemo wants, Nemo gets. We have learned! Jeanette

From: Rose, Revis PO;  RRose@d11.uscg.mil; To: "'Michaelis, Stanley;
Stanley, Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I installed the pan into a twisted frame.  When I realized what I had done I cut it back out and installed in a new front sub-frame.    I'm doing a sub-frame transplant at this time. Believe me this is scary, when you make that "cut" too cut the front sub- frame off your car, your really hopping that your not in over your head. It sounds easy just cut off the bad peace and weld on the new one. Well this is an adventure isn't it?
I can't help you with the pan, I'm using it on my car, so it's not for sale.  The 1.7/1.8/2.0 liter VW Squareback/Bus/914 engines are good engines and have few things going for them: 1. It makes much more power than the 1.6 liter 912(+ 2). 2. It is cheaper to rebuild than the 912 engine, easy too(+ 3). I think that if I had a spare 2.0 liter sitting around maybe I would do it too(+ 1), but then again it sounds like a bus(- 6).   I'm rebuilding my 912.
Pistons w/o Cylinders $675.00 Shasta P/C (9.25:1) are $1000.00
Head work including: $890.00 valves, springs, etc.
Machine work: Grind Crank .010 under $385-450
Bore/Hone Cyl. $ 90.00
Rebuild/Bal. Rod $ 45.00 each
Bearings aprox. $150.00
This is a partial list and as you can see it's expensive, and this is not including the new oil pump, new cam and lifters gears or Hot Rod stuff, or any other misl. expenses. I'm not trying to scare you but I really don't think that people realize this stuff. For the price of a STOCK rebuild you can get a screamer VW type I but that the price you have to pay, to play. As for the bus motor, well Hell, if had wanted a hot VW, I would have bought a GTI. No, I'm not crazy I just like it the way the car was designed. There are faster cars than the 912 (my 944 for instance). There is no such thing as a cheap PORSCHE. Good luck. Keep the 912 Faith! V/R Revis

From: GEORGE PRICE;  PRICEG4@lakehurst.navy.mil; I have a 66 912 I am trying to restore, unlike my 944 I need info. Is there a dash cover available for a 66, is the dash the same as a 69, what interior parts are interchangeable ect. What year do the front calipers interchange with. Any info on front shock replacement.  Can anyone help me with info on welding in floor pans and rockers, how to jack the car to prevent buckling, do you do the floors first or the inner and outer rockers, how to get the headlight buckets out. Are there any kits to replace the generator with an alternator, any kit to replace the oil filter with a screw on, any kits to replace points with electronic. Any and all info would be appreciated. Please replie to priceg4@lakehurst.navy.mil

From: ;  jarusso@CCGATE.HAC.COM; Hi, I have a tip which I hope will be helpful to some of the registry members who are new to Porsche ownership: I have noticed quite a few references to the high price of parts for all of your 912s, and suggest this: SHOP AROUND!
I know that when I first got my 912 and began receiving all those Porsche catalogs,........ I was relieved to find sources for parts, both restoration and performance, however, I was shocked at the prices. I don't mean to put down these catalogs, but I get the impression that they regard Porsche owners as:
a) Rich; we can afford to pay that kind of money (certainly not MY situation)
b) Gullible; hey, I can't just go down to the local auto parts store and buy this stuff (often, but not always true)
c) Lazy; why bother shopping around when everything's right here?
or...
d) All of the above.
As an example, I recently decided to follow Rich Lambert's advice (BTW: great guy, has provided me LOADS of help and info on prepping my car to race!) and get adjustable spring plates (rather than a rear swaybar). One of the "catalogs" lists them at about $380 for the early ('65-'68) cars. I called Sway-A-Way (the manufacturer), got a part number and the phone numbers of some of their other distributors, and ended up (after some confusion, and one set of plates returned) with the very same spring plates for $213/pr!!!
The same with the set of Koni adjustable shocks I purchased; just over half the price of the lowest catalog!
I really hate to think of people getting discouraged by the prices of parts for these great cars (as I was), so remember, do some research and shop around!! 
Hope this is helpful to someone out there.  Joe Russo

From: Brian Minto;  mintob@cadvision.com;  I have visited the 912 Page many times and have always come away thinking the session was worthwhile. As to your question re: heater, I am hard pressed to give you a straight answer. The car had a Wabasto gas heater in it that absolutely refused to work after seeing several "experts", so I bought entire replacement heater from Rich Lambert, also on your listing.....I took one mixture pump to a rewinder, along with better of the two fuel pumps. Nothing has returned yet. The exhaust system was brand new when I bought the car but exhaust- related heater was not connected and, in fact was missing many small items, so I began buying parts as they showed up in manuals and parts lists. I thought that I now had all missing parts but after just crawling under again a few minutes ago, I am again confused. I realized that I only had two cable sheaths going back from tunnel so I had assumed that I needed an additional Y cable and interior cable but lo and behold, instead of Y sheaths for dual heater cables (flapper box and control box on eac side) as I had expected, there are only single cable sheaths on each side (actually in pretty good shape attached to flapper boxes an no way to attach my new heater control boxes. So now I seem to need another Y sheath ($90) to go along with $200 worth of stuff last week, $160 the week before, Rich's $100 worth of stuff....... and two service bills totalling $350 which produced no positive results. Euro? US? I would say that it was Euro-equipped originally, that this was removed for some reason and is in transition to US-type, by default - due to parts availability. The Wabasto is also still missing a good muffler. That should be an interesting hunt. I will again mention your site to other local 912 owners at next local Porsche Club meeting. There are about a dozen 912-owner members. Thanks for the note and keep up the good work.

From:  Revis Rose, PO;  RRose@d11.uscg.mil; Just checking in to info everyone on how the restoration is going. As you may remember, in my e-mail of 23 Feb 98 I ran into a bit of a snag. Well, I am back at work on the front-end of my 912. I've been spending so much time on this car my wife is getting jealous. I think she is calling it "Monica" or something to that effect. Anyway, that new front suspension pan was cut out of my car, leaving a rather large hole. I located a front substructure, that will replace the old one, which will be cut off next week.

The "new" substructure came from 912 457017, a '67 three gauge car, which I must report as dismantled and destroyed. It was chosen because, although it was a little rusty, it was straight and had adjustable strut perches.(That's good because it makes front-end camber and caster much easier.) I have reinstalled the front suspension pan on this "new" substructure and should be prepped and ready for installation next weekend.

I really want to thank Jim and Spencer EASY (European Auto Salvage Yard) in Emeryville, CA. They were very helpful in finding and giving me a good price on this substructure. It may save this project. Keep the 912 Faith!

From: Jim Boucher; Fri, 06 Mar 1998; Boogieman@kconline.com; Hi Guys! I seem to have a problem I hope some one can shed some "light" on.
I have re-assembled my dash on my '68 Targa. After a complete restoration and when I put the gages back in (with the correct wiring, as I labeled and created a diagram for each upon disassembly) I have no back lighting in the fuel, tach or the speedo. The lights in the clock and temp gage do work! I have not screwed the brackets back in on the tach yet. The blinker lights work, the break light, red, green, high beam and parking lights all work! The bulbs seem to be O.K. although I did not check the all. Does this puzzle any one else? I have not checked the voltage with my meter yet. Does anybody know if all the back lights have the same ground?
Does anybody have any suggestions? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Jim, The Boogieman

From: Revis Rose, PO;  RRose@d11.uscg.mil; I've reached the point of asking what's it worth. After cutting out the suspension pan and installing the new one, there is a problem. It appears that the front sub-frame was twisted and when I welded in the pan I set the twist. When the hood is closed there is a 1 inch gap between it and the trunk frame on the drivers side. Options: 1. Take it to a good frame shop. $$$$$$ 2. Weld in a used front clip. $250.00 + S-Met. 3 Undo almost all of my work straighten it my self. $????  What is a stock 1966 912 worth, in good straight condition? The state of California says for tax purposes it's worth $4,100.00.  Assuming I'll never get my money out of this thing. Would building a customized 912 (i.e. 76 912 front end w/ 911R flairs and rear bumpers) be a crime? Your input would be appreciated. V/R, Revis

Webmeister $.02: check the Restoration page for a few places that give Porsche valuations...as to
my opinion, most people never sell a car for the $ they spend.....to own a new 911 is $60-70K, plus all that insurance and depreciation....if your car is mint, it's best to leave it original, but if original isn't important to you, just about everyone likes a 911R...OR another option...MAYBE YOU COULD RACE IT! Don't give up, Revis, Cheers, Rick B.

From: Rose, Revis PO;  RRose@d11.uscg.mil; Ref: My 912 Project. This project is coming along well. The rusted sheet metal in the trunk has been cut out. The new sheet metal has been fitted and tack wielded in place.  The engine rebuild is still in the disassembly stage. The heads are at the Maestro's (they were in bad shape) and I got the pistons (86mm CR 9.25:1) from Shasta Design in Lake Head, CA. I'm splitting the cases this week, I already know that the No. 2 Rod Bearing is shot, and the crank will need to be turned. Keep the 912 Faith!  Revis Rose

From: Jim Boucher;  boogieman@kconline.com; Hay 912 fans, I need some help with the replacement of the Targa bar seal. I need to know how to remove the "funnel" part on the targa bar that receives the pins on the rear of the targa top. I am assuming these "funnels" have to be removed to get the seal in. There seems to be 2 other holes one on ether side of the "funnels", what are they for? Were they to mount a plate that would protect the rubber from damage as you miss the funnel with the pin? If so would anybody know what they look like or maybe where I might get them? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, The Boogieman, '68 912 Targa

From: Burt116;  Burt116@aol.com; Subj: Re: 912 Horn Grills from John Flacey- According to my research on the subject a few years ago:  1. 1968 horn Grilles differed from prior years and also the 1969 version as well.  2. I had tried all the standard distributors of Porsche parts, including Stoddard; and several of the lesser know purveyors of hard to find parts. I was told it was NLA in all instances. (perhaps that has changed lately?) 3. Johnson's Book on Restoration of 911/912 vintage year models indeed alludes to those recognized differences (as I recall). 4. A local Rechromer I consulted stated that it would be VERY costly in terms of labor to remove the metal pits and rechrome the part and felt it would not end up as a suitable finished product (Hard to get in between the louvres) & must be done by hand work. 5. Never heard of a Wire Laser for replication of a metal part.....will try to check it out.....though the cost might prove prohibitive. Appreciate your response, Burt Davis

From: Susan Harris; Allegro6@ix.netcom.com; '76 912E; Hello again, I contacted Porsche North America yesterday regarding  the Certificate of Authenticity and wanted you to know that the address you have listed is correct. With a couple of additions, he gave me the following address:
Porsche Car North America, Inc.
Customer Commitment Headquarters
PO Box 30911
Reno, Nevada 89520-3911
$30.00 plus proof of ownership
They were extremely helpful and even looked up my car on the computer.  Seems there was an old 1976 recall for the mass airflow sensor that was never taken care of that I can still do...imagine that...too funny. He was able to give me a history of my car just by looking up the number. This is all so very exciting to me. I have wanted a 912E Porsche for as long as I can remember and we have been looking at them, driving them, drooling over them for 10 years now. This one was my Christmas present and I couldn't be a prouder owner. I love my car. Thanks for the website. (My husband thinks I'm crazy to go on so much about this car, but it truly is a dream come true for me and I'm so excited about it.) :-) Sincerely, Susie Harris

From: Revis Rose, PO;  RRose@d11.uscg.mil; Just passing on info I've been able to find. In my search for replacement body panels, I've come across some sources. For floor and trunk pans I found that Restoration Design in Eaton Rapids, Michigan (517) 663-4545. I was very impresses with the trunk support, I bought. It's galvanized, and maybe it will last a little longer. Also if your doing any restoration project, give Eastwood Co. a call at 1-800-345-1178. Their catalog is full of very useful tools and equipment. Their Website: www.eastwoodco.com. The project is progressing slowly, the heads are in the shop. The cylinders (cast iron, can you say big bore kit) are in good condition.
New forged pistons are on order. Keep the 912 faith. Revis Rose

From: Mark Alan Selleck; glassimpressions@pipeline.com; '68 Targa; I'm looking for a source for the CORRECT felt strip that lines the DOOR rear window channel in a '68 Targa. This felt is different from earlier "early" cars because of the addition of a nylon glide to the rear end of the glass carrier channel. I'm not sure if the '69 or later mechanism is unchanged or not.  Anyone with a '68 car out there that has had to replace this item recently? Thanks for any help.

From: Burt Davis;  Burt116@aol.com; Question: 1968 912 Horn Grilles (Chromed) differ from earlier models and from the 1969 versions of same. Apparently used only on 68's and have not found any aftermarket replacements and are NLA from Porsche as well. Apparently not enough demand to reproduce? Yes, can if need be, have originals polished out and rechromed but does anyone have any knowledge or suggestions about this minuteia of restoration detail? This dilemma also applies to the 911Series body trim components for they essentially were one and the same! Thanks, Burt

From: Ken Robinson;  ken@comsource.net; I bought a 1967 912 and need to find a source of parts. Please provide me with the names of a few good parts catalogs for nos and aftermarket parts. I need a right front fender and a complete real bumper set up. The car was hit in the rear and needs some strighting as well.  Thanks, Ken Robinson

From: Steve and Jennifer Donahue;  e-mail: RecldCycls@aol.com ; Seattle, Wa.; 1965 coupe; We are trying to restore it but rust has gotten the better of the floorboards. We need lots of advice.

From: Dick G. Bowker;  e-mail bowker@alma.edu; Your paint table was great - confirmed that I Have aga blue (6608). But I cannot get anyone to convert that to a modern paint number (Like a PPG or Dupont Number). Porsche USA couldnt help, local Porsche dealer couldnt help (that was predictable), two local car paint stores couldnt help with their computers. This has me baffled. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance.

flacey.JPGFrom: Johnflacey;  e-mail: Johnflacey@aol.com;1969 hard-window Targa; I have had this car for 5 years, and have enjoyed it immensely. I have had a 66 912 Coupe, and subsequently a 74 914-1.8 in the past.  I had the engine and its compartment redone and returned to concours/original condition in 1995. My next goal is to get the body cosmetics up to a higher level: there is some minor bubbling (is that a contradiction in terms?) at the door bottoms and the inner and outer rockers should likely be rebuilt before they get bad. There are some relatively small surface door dings, stone dings, etc. that are conspicuous mostly to me, but that should be addressed, and a respray is warranted thereby. I would be interested to hear from owners out there who have been through this kind of exercise recently, for guidance on the measure to take, and/or the magnitude of efforts in terms of time and cost that I will face.

From: Henny van Kranen;  e-mail: balthus@bigfoot.com Alblasserdam, the Netherlands; 1966 Coupe, Slate Gray, 80K ml ?? My car is in restoration now you can see it on: http://members.tripod.com/~BALTHUS ; http://www.worldaccess.nl/~hvkranen; Groeten van/Regards from Henny en Ingrid van Kranen.

What has worked and what didn't work in your Concours efforts?

From: Victor Oliver; peaklight@hotmail.com; Dear Rick: Thank you for posting my Concours comments. As past Concours Chair for the North Country Region, I had a complete set of instruction which I gave out to newcomers. However, thought I would pass a few to your
posting.

I own a 1988 924S which I have entered in numerous Concours. To date the car has been driven 12,000 miles - mostly to competitions. I am actively looking for a 912 which is how I came across the 912 website and the Question of the Month.

------ --------- who is a ---- member has a 1976 coupe for sale which I have driven. He is asking $12,000.00 for it as listed in the ----- issue of Pano. Seems a little pricey but I am not that knowledable about 912 to really pass judgement or to purchase. So I am still looking for a clean
driver. I have the 924S, I don't need another moveable paperweight sitting in the garage.

The 912 Registry website has been very informative and perhaps will lead me to a $6,000.00 - 8,000.00 driver here in the New England area. Thanks again,

From: Vic Oliver;  catails@massed.net; From V. Oliver, Sandwich. MA:
As a serious Concours competitor who has won 1st place and Best of Show on the regional, Zone and Parade level I offer the following comments:

Give yourself twoweeks to get the car ready for a show. Begin with engine, then interior and finally the exterior - don't forget the tool kit.  Carry your supplies in large rubbermaid storage boxes.  Chemicals and wash buckets in one Towels, rags and paper toewling in another.  Plastics bags for storing mats, seat covers and misc, go in the tqwel box.  Develop a check list for the day of the show:
Empty car and stow mats
Wipe down engine.
Mist spray wheels ans wipe down
Clean pop up lights and front plate of bugs.
etc. etc.with mask taping interior last.
Once the car interior glass is polished with a soft rag and the interior is taped, close up the car and STOP WORKING
SIT DOWN on the lawn chair you bought along and wait for the judges.
Occasionaly, dust off the groves of the car with wide soft paint brush (masking tape covering the metal part) of tree particles or air bourne dust.
DO NOT keep going over the car.
RELAX in your chair and enjoy the day.
Most importantly, don't take what the judges say personally. It's all a game.
Vic Oliver

From: Mike Kieley;  mkieley@hmr.ca; I bought my '68 coupe just this spring - it had won first in its class at the PCA 10 years ago, and I decided to try for it again. I needed to replace some worn trim bits, and I was lucky enough to pick up a good parts car. I replaced worn or cracked signal light assemblies, front and rear, and little stuff like broken seat control knobs. The rest was just hours of work cleaning everything, pulling up all the rugs and trunk mat and painting underneath. The engine was already clean, but it's amazing what you can do with a well-aimed toothbrush! (I won't repeat my wife's snide comments on this effort!) Fortunately, my paint was excellent - I got a big surprise when I went to touch up the stone chips, as the can of original paint was of course much darker than my faded exterior!
Anyway, June 14 was our local PCA concours day. I was very disappointed with the judging format, particularly that there was no allowance for originality. I was the only car in my class that is completely original - the others were mostly modified 911's with new leather interiors, etc.etc.
I still came first in my class - pre-1974 911/912.
I entered a larger show the following week - 400 cars of all types. I was in the tiny class "Imports, 1890-1978" !! I came in second to a 1933 Fiat. This show had 5 judges cover each car. Here I learned DON'T forget to clean the underside of the car. I also swear by the tire blackening sprays - they make the alloy Fuchs stand out nicely against the rubber.
Mike Kieley

From: Jeanette Ahlgren;  JMAhlgren@aol.com; Concours... AKA "better life through chemicals"... and how to blow (at least) three months of one's life sweating the small stuff.
First: Don't tell anyone what you're working on. I don't care how close knit your family is, there is nothing that will scare them more than your detailed account of cad plating engine hardware.
Second: Remember it IS a car... and (hopefully) you bought it to drive. Tack that note up close to the phone so it's there to guide you when you just HAVE to order the OEM full leather interior kit.
Third: Get as many books and info for your particular model and year. Decide BEFORE you start whether the quest for authenticity is worth the grief of hunting down rare '68 interior parts or reverting to perlon carpeting and rubber floor mats.
Fourth: Know that when you ARE done, you will have a much greater appreciation for the remarkable 912 build quality, and maybe even the secret knowledge of a perfect headliner installation.
...The last will probably only get you odd looks, so don't use it as an icebreaker.
Jeanette Ahlgren


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