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Restoration Blog: Rust Prevention

Have rust in your 912 and want to prevent it? Read the comments below from other 912 owners.

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From: Indie2;  ; After pulling up the carpeting and padding in my 68' 912 coupe I found a good amount of rust and corrosion in the floor board of the car. I'm just 17 and so my budget is extremely limited.  Instead of paying big bucks and having it cut out and putting new steel in, I went another route. napa has a product that "kills" rust and actually eliminates its continuance. fairly cheep at around $12. oo. I applied 2 coats and let dry.  Afterwords I cut sheets of fiberglass the fit the floor pans and applied resin and liquid hardener. only one layer was needed but you could apply more depending on how bad the pans are or how strong you want to make them.  I then applied a thick coat of heavy-duty rubberized undercoating underneath the car to fill and strengthen the holes caused by the rust. it also acted as a sound barrier.  It was a cheap way to take care of the problem efficiently.  All in all it was about 40 dollars.  By the way...why is it so common for the pans to rust out in the 911 & 912?  

From: Tracy Ferrell ;  ;  San Diego, CA, USA;  1967 Karmann Coupe; I need help with restoration. The body is beat up. The floor pan is rusted through. The engine doesn't run. The dash and wheels are real nice, though (well, I'm trying to be positive). This Porsche deserves a chance to live again.

From: Jose L Tirado;  ; Hi: I am the proud owner of a '69 in Georgia, the car looked ok when purchased, some cracks in the bottom pan and I thought that it had some rust. Upon taking the seats and carper out, I checked the floor pan, it appeared to be protected with the original material. After close observation I found that the floor original sound deadening mat holds and retains water. As I can see the body was covered with a seam sealer type thin coat over the bare metal, painted with black paint and then the original color overspray paint. It is protected with a tar impregnated horse-hair type material which is all over the floor and rear seat areas and if water enter the area, RUST get ballistic..there It was a nightmare to take all the material, it had rust scales by the bucket. I am still cleaning with a medium size chisel and small hammer to peel all the material to bare metal. Beware of the fiberglass madmen... one of them with large quantities of fiberglass placed enormous sheets of fiberglass cloth, impregnated with resin all over the rust and metal
bars with screws, For support? I am chiseling all that out, clean all rust, protect with POR15 and temporary will fix all holes until new floor pans are replaced later a several weeks project. My previous '66 project was killed by rust, I will not let my '69 be killed by it. Protect your Porsche! and check closely...

From: Tom York;  ; How do I know if my car was zinc treated from the factory.  The vin# is 9126001701.

From: Tony Booth;  ; Only one other 912 up here in Calgary, which makes this site invaluable.
My problem is ;- How are rusty gas tanks best de-rusted and passified ?. I have heard that hydrochloric
acid is used, sounds drastic ! Has anyone had a tank successfully de-rusted internally and the surface
neutalized/passified ?
I would sure like to have the technical details so as I know the shop I choose is doing the right thing.
Great site, kind regards Tony Booth

From: John Smith;  ; Well I wasn't as lucky as you other folks. My '67 looked good on inspection, but during the process of replacing the interior, I discovered the pans were completely gone. Appears the rear window and windshield were leaking and about an 1.5 inches of water sat in the bottom for a considerable period of time. The undercoating on the bottom was perfect too. So now I'm in the process of cutting the pan out. I got a new one from my local porsche guy, aftermarket of course. For anyone that has to do this, the spotwelds are a bugger. The best way I found was to cut the pan along the seams with a die grinder. Then clean the seam really well with a wire brush and/or paint stripper. Get it to where you can locate all of the welds. Then, go through and drill through with a 1/8 then 1/4 drill. Split the pan off with a chisel. When you go back with the new one, weld through the holes and then grind them off to where they look like spot welds again. It's working well, but I wish I didn't have to do it. Kinda funny that it's the only rust on the car, and believe me I've looked. If anyone has a better method for taking the spot welds apart, I'd be glad to know. The Howitzer

From: "markmaui";  ; Rust - not a problem, if you keep the car in a cool dry place with a soft cover. i drive mine about 3 - 5 miles after I wash it; that seems to drive out any moisture that accumulates.
Over the years growing up on Maui, I've really seen some nice old Porsches get "eaten"; but with care
taken, as Don Ho might say, "Ain't No big thing, braddah!"

From: Jon Powell;  ; This morning, I had the rather frightening experience of finding some rust in the floor pan, passenger side, of my '67 912 Coupe. I have already had the front suspension pan replaced. My car is not pristine--it's one of those cars that looks great if its moving or if you're not closer than five feet. I drive it every day, rain, shine, or snow. I paid $4500 for it and it has been well worth the time and money that I have put into it since the initial investment.

I hate to say this, but I suspect that most people who say their mid-sixties Porsches have no rust have not looked in all the right places. Here are a few that one might, or might not, want to check (besides the obvious, like the front suspension pan):

1) under the hood seal. Take a plastic ice-scraper or wrap a putty knife in electrical tape and very carefully go around the hood seal, moving it from side to side. Use a flashlight and listen carefully for that stomach tightening "grunch."
2) under the windshield seal. This is much more difficult to assess, but if you take a glass of water and pour it down your windshield from the upper corners, some of the water should pool in the lower corners. Watch that water and see where it goes. If it seems to disappear, it's going to a very scary
place where rust grows.
3) floor pans. As another contributor has already mentioned, that black, fibrous, sound-deadening material on the floor pan holds water. Take a stiff hair comb or "pick" and poke that fiber-stuff at about a 45 degree angle all over. Look for that dirt-red powder; it isn't dirt. Look under the car; there is a round "crater" that often has rust around its edges.
4) jacking points. Enough has been said about these elsewhere.
5) rear pop-out windows. Look very carefully along the chrome strip at the bottom of your rear quarter windows. Push down gently on the chrome strip and listen carefully.
6) tail-light sockets. Remove the two screws that hold the tail-light assembly in the socket and VERY carefully remove it. Remember that your wires are likely very brittle with age, so again--be carefull. Even if your car is/was never driven in the rain, if it is washed regularly, you still may have rust here. Make sure the drain holes are clear before you re-install the tail-light assembly. DO NOT overtighten the screws or you will crack the glass!

I hope that everyone who looks in these places finds no rust, and I hope that those of you who do find rust can take care of it before it gets any worse. I know that my summer projects are: Replace the hood seal, fix rust.  Remove seats and fiber coating, fix rust. Remove tail-lights, fix rust. Frankly, I
kind of look forward to it.
Good luck to all,
Jon
'67 912

From: Marcus Wappler, Deutschland;  ; Hello everyone!  For the first time with the help of the Alta Vista compiler/ translator: My 912 comes from CA and has almost no rust! I found some in the typical places: The jacking points and the spare wheel tub, but otherwise there was none ! The sun of California is definitely as good as they say! CU :-) Wawa..

From: David Curtis/Carol Springer;  ; Iron Oxide - Hi Rick et.al., My 912 came from a collector and has been a fair weather toy since '69. I have had several Porsches (all old, mostly 356s) and learned long ago to avoid rusty cars if possible. My current car (a likely keeper) is really solid and I am continuing the tradition of part-time fair weather use. Thanks for your 912 effort D.C.

From: Michael Schnittker;  ; I looked hard at the floorpan of my 69 912 before I bought it. It was solid when checked from below. Inside it was still covered with that fiberous black mat material. I knew there would be rust under the two back seats as I could see water had settled there. After I bought it I removed all of the matting from on top the floor and found it had trapped water for a long time and that it was surface rusted all over, thin in some places and through in a few places. I removed the seats and all the carpet in the area and cleaned the surface down to just a coat of surface rust. Then I used two coats of One Step rust killer and coating on it, inside the tunnel, whereever I saw rust. Then after it dried for some days I painted it with ref primer. It's still a good coating now but I haven't patched the holes under the back seats or the smaller holes in the floor. I don't drive the car in rain! Will weld metal to cover the holes when I return to the States (I'm in Greece with the State Dept) and have a proper garage and time.  Mike Schnittker

From: John Seymour; ; I purchased my car last year after answering an ad in the classified which said that it was for sale. When I saw the car, I realized that it was in pretty good shape, body-wise, but that it had the classic rust in the front pan area around the tow hook and the cross member between the battery boxes. Later, I discover two small perferations in the pan just in front of the seats, but very small and non-structural.
Shortly thereafter, I purchased a new front pan from Cy and Doc, and I had it installed by the local body shop. I paid them $400 to do the installation, and I am happy with it. Another shop in Ukiah, about 75 miles from me wanted more than a thousand for the same job. However, that price included the cost of the pan for which I paid less than $200. All in all, I think I did the right thing. There are probably others of you out there who can think of cheaper repairs, but they weren't available to me.
I used an epoxy to repair the small perferations in fron of the seats, and you can't tell that there was ever a problem.
I had the car re-painted after I removed everything and did a lot of the prep work myself. I can now tell that I should have done even more preparation than I did, but the result is nevertheless good, but not perfect. To do it perfectly, you have to strip all of the old paint, and I just wasn't prepared to do that.
I intend to time trial and, possibly, vintage race this car, and a perfect paint job would have been a waste of money considering the use to which the car will be put. However, being a Porsche purist, I appreciate the value of quality work, and I strive to do the best I can whenever I make repairs or improvements.
I am getting anxious to put the final pieces together and get the car on the road. I am now aiming for the next time trial at Thunderhill.
Thanks for the question, and I would be happy to discuss any part of my car or any of your projects. Please give me a line. John

From: Jeanette Ahlgren;  ; RUST? Oh, you mean that red brown stuff? NO! "Absolutely NO RUST what so ever on THIS CAR ...EVER".  That's OUR car, I don't know about ANYONE ELSES 912, but OUR car came with a special option that even if SOME OTHER OWNER submersed THIS baby in the Pacific Ocean for a month, no rust would ever, EVER materialize. .....Rust: Although there was no metal perforation, rust was found breeding in the front bumper (the bracket that holds it on was quite a sight). Rust damage was "taken care of" (read: bondoed/ primered and painted....) at the corners of the rear window. Rockers were full of water ... we drained them ...No rust, but it sure as hell didn't give us that "glowing new car ownership feeling"...which is why we COMPLETELY tore the car down ... "A little rust" means CHECK EVERYTHING! Peddles were starting to rust up, back floors had a slight case ... (be careful with the back floors, the metal IS thin, and even without rust, a heavy person CAN dent or even tear a hole in the floor, rockers were OK, but we sloshed some anti- rust gunk through them anyhow, ALL the interior was removed as was the dash, and especially the sound deadening. After completely inspecting/scraping/and rust proofing any and every area that could even dream about rusting (we thought it prudent NOT to primer the window glass) we painted and re assembled our "California RUST FREE 912". Do we drive it in the rain?  OF COURSE NOT! This is California, and it NEVER rains! Jeanette Ahlgren

From: Bill Lambert;  ; Rick, I was fortunate to purchase the 912E in Arizona where it spewnt it's life - hence, no rust. In fact the original yellow paint is in exceptional condition. Bill Lambert

From: Clarence;  ; Well, I have a California car that was either garaged or kept beneath a carport its entire life. My car had no rust when I purchased it :) Clarence

From: Ron Anthony;  ; 912 E 986 was gone over with a fine tooth comb (almost anyway) and we did not detect any rust problems of any significance. There was a tiny area at the lower left corner of the windshield but not anything worrisome. The floor, the battery box, the areas in front of the doors, above the headlights, around the support tube in the rear all checked out very well. Rust problems can be like icebergs, the part you see is only a fraction of the real problem and quite often once the structual rigidity is compromised it is only a matter of time.   Thanks, Ron.

From:  Bill Schurman;  ; The rocker panels and the front fenders just ahead of the doors ( on top) were badly rusted. This car came from somewhere other than Colorado. I had the rust cut out with good results in the rocker panels and mixed results on the fender tops.  Bill Schurman, Steamboat Springs, CO, ' 90 Titanium all options black basketweaves, ' 66 912

From: Tom Sutan; ; i have to say that my 912 is rust free.the previous owner had told me that he have never driven in the rain and garage her all the time. he had to sell the car because he needed the space for his 67 911S then i knew that was the car i have to have.  Tom Sutan

From: ;  ; When I got my 912, the front pan was rusted through so that the front connections for the torsion bars were completely adrift. Additionally, there was rust in the sides of the front structure under the wheelwells and forward.  I purchased a front floor pan from Tweeks including a gas tank support and tow hook.
I removed the gas tank and the entire front suspension from the car.
Using a pneumatic chisle, I cut the entire front pan from the car. I cut three bad rusty patches from the sides of the structure and using a grinder Iground down all the edges smooth.
Welding the new pan and patches in place took a lot of practice with the welder and a lot of clamps to align it perfectly before I started. I finally hit on the idea of attaching the torsion bars to the piece and then clamping it in place, insuring proper alignment of the pan and front suspension pieces.  I cut the patches for the sides from the doors of a wrecked VW, then shaped
and ground them to fit over the holes I had cut in the sides.
The preparation for all this took about 2 weeks of part-time work, and I worked alone most of the time with assistance from my son with removing the heavy suspension and "holding in place" for the hours it took to align all the pieces.
The welding itself was done with an inexpensive wire feed welder I bought from Sears. The welding did not consume much time, and the finished product was all painted with POR rust inhibitors and sealed with a coat of black undercoat paint.
My total cost including the cost of the welder was under $500. That seems like a real bargain compared to the $1000 the local rebuilder wanted up front just to start!!
The car handles much better, and the front end is extremely tight and feels like new. Some of that is due to the increased rigidity of the structure and torsion bar attach points, and some is due to the new bushings I installed at the time of the re-installation of the front suspension.
I'm no mechanic or sheet metal guy and I was able to complete the repairs with no assistance. My recommendation to anyone is to just dive in!! You will learn a lot about your car as you go, and the results will please you for years to come.

From: Mark Tracy;  ; Only rust on the car was in the heater tube passages, just at the rear lower corners of the door. In the process of cutting and wire-brushing out rust, and applying Naval Jelly. Will fix with a small amount of sheet metal. Aren't we lucky in California! Mark Tracy

From: J Gissel; ; My 912 is a 1976 912E. It does not have any rust on it for two reasons:
1. It was an Arizona car for fifteen years
2. 1976 was the first year of corrosion proofing the body panels

From: Manfred Botz;  ; My car is from California and I had no rust :-) Regards. Manne

From: Jerry Allston;  ; Fortunately our 912 lived it's first 6 years in S. Calif and the last 24 years in Phoenix AZ. No rust, no problem. Jerry Allston

From: Greg Bryan;  ; Hi, Thanks for the message ... My 912 is a black plate California car meaning it has spent its whole life in this dry climate, so fortunately it has very little rust. It was rusted out under the battery and I fixed that about 5 or 6 years ago. I bought the repair pieces from Stoddard and replaced them myself. I have a lot of tools and mechanical experience, but I'm no more than an inspired amateur when it comes to metal work. Considering how much it costs to have a body shop do this very common repair, I bought a MIG welder and some other metal tools and installed the parts myself. It took me most of a winter to do the job, but it turned out very good.
I also have some rust coming through at the top rear of the front right fender and at the front side of the ft. rt. fender adjacent to the turn signal lamp assembly. I think happened because I had the fenders dipped when I repainted the car in the mid-80s. Probably some of the caustic gunk that was used to strip the paint was trapped behind the gussets that are in those areas. In retrospect, I would have the parts sandblasted. There are lots of companies around now that blast with media that won't harm sheet metal and there is no residue to worry about.
Another place it has rust is on the package tray under the rear window.  The rear window gasket was bad when I bought the car although I didn't notice it for years until I pulled the upholstery out. It was rusted in a straight line right across the tray from right to left. I riveted a piece of sheet metal onto the top over the rusted area. Not a repair I'm particularly proud of, but pretty effective, none the less (and invisible). Regards

From: Phil Evans;  ; My '69 912 that I bought last year had virtually no rust on it (one of the reasons I did buy it). During the repainting, a minor amount was found on the rear bumper and under one of the door deco strips. All rust was removed during the repainting. Phil Evans

From: Dave;  ; The rust on my car consists of small surface rust on the hood, and front valance. I also had rust holes in my rocker panels as well as behind the headlights. The rear deck lid (trunk) was so bad off I removed it and am now looking for a replacement.
As for repair I am currently sanding off the surface rust. I sand blasted the holes and ground away the rough edges.  I will glass the holes and use spot/body filler to repair the other areas.  Thanks for the interest!  Dave

From: Mike Mueller;  ; Originally my '68 Softback was imported from the Netherlands to WA for a bunch of years, then brought down to CA where it has been for the last 10. It is running but not driven, is totally original (including the paint). The restoration is being done slowly as time and budget permit.   The rear of both floorboards are rusted thru, the drivers side has a softball size hole while the passenger side has a quarter size hole. The front are not thru yet but will be replaced as well.  This is weird though, I also have rust under the headlights. it's in an arc that somewhat matches the shape of the lights but is an inch or so below the bottom of the ring. I pulled the lites out and the buckets look great! I thought for sure they were rusted out. All the rust seems to be in the fender itself. Any ideas on why? That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Thanks! Mike Mueller, Equipment Leasing and Funding, www.leasingdept.com

From: bsr;  ; Rick, have no rust problems. car was in awesome shape, original owner took great care of car. Looks like it was under coated , and guy's in local porsche club said I was fortunate to have bought such a gem, sight unseen.Brian

From: Casey Welsh; ;  My car is a 76' 912E . So there was no rust anywhere thanks to the zinc coated bodies. What helps is my car was also very staight, no dents or dings where rust could start. Thanks . Casey t. Welsh

From: Rodney A. Harrison;  ; What rust problem? Rust adds character to old Porsches! Seriously, mine seemed nice upon initial inspection, being a California car and all. However... I found rust in most of the usual places - battery box, pan, jack receivers and the paint job that was beautiful in 1986 is finally showing a few bubbles, again, in the normal places. Treatment has been cleaning the areas with a wire brush, prepping with one of the newer "rust stopping paints" (the one I use is a 3M product) and good ol' bondo. The bubbles I just leave alone, as my rot detector still says there is healthy metal underneath.
Having gone through the pain and suffering of a complete restoration of a 356 Porsche, I find the above much more satisfying, easier on both the marriage and the pocket-book, and is in keeping with the character of the car, which is my daily driver, which this year means driving in El Nino's
path. My current plans are to media blast the pan next month and repair/replace as needed, then undercoat, as the current undercoating is trapping moisture and is a far worse problem than it is a help.

From: Thom Kuby; ;  My '68 came to me as a valentines gift one year from the all-knowing, far-reaching wife several years ago . The previous owner had replaced the rockers, and the front pan. He then proceeded to put one of the worlds WORST paint jobs on it. This galvanized (no pun intended) my decision to go whole hog and do a bare-metal repaint.
When I stripped it to bare metal, the shell was suprisingly straight and rust free...except the front fenders (no suprise there) they had been poorly repaired, but never bent. I decided to replace them and fix these originals later, when I can afford to repair them properly. I had one excellent front fender in my vast cache of 912 parts that I had traded a 914 for...however, it took me FOREVER to locate a suitable mate for it...finally found it for the paltry sum of 200 bucks and it was amazingly straight and rust free. For those of you new to early 911s/912s, decent front fenders are an absolute B**** to find...unless you are made out of money and can spend $1500 on a new one. I also replaced the hood, as I had a perfect hood in this aforementioned
cache of parts. the original hood had some minor, repairable cancer underneath the front edge. And thats about it for rust, and rusty parts on my car...I consider myself pretty damn lucky...
Cheers, Thom Kuby, '68 912 - looking very butch these days

From: JimboMGA;  ; Ah, the rust, Talk about a constant heartache.  My 1969 912 had some rust at the front bumper, weld seem at rear of front fenders, rockers, jack points, lower door panels, lower drivers front windscreen corner. To address the rust problem I inadvertently positioned myself and the car in the path of a profoundly clueless driver so as to damage front end sheet metal to the point that her insurance would pay for the bulk of the rust removal. I kicked in for the remainder. Clever eh? Not really. The day to day battle over the insurance claim was a nightmare. And the whole event cheated me out of three and a half months of my seven month driving season.  The rust at the rear of the front fenders is already coming back (to a very minor degree). The car looks much better. And is surely healthier for having spent so much time at the body shop. I live in constant envy of the galvanized body cars. Sincerely,  , 1969 912 (44/56)

From: Brian;  ; The only rust I've ever had on my car was a little surface rust around the battery....so far, that's all <fingers crossed> Brian

From: Dean Klein;  ; Palmer Station, Antarctic Support Associates; None, really. A minor bubble, about the size of a dime, just in front of the passenger door wear the window water channel comes down. Quickly repaired.   The pans are perfect as well. For someone who bought the car blind over the internet, I made out like a bandit. Dean

From: N Fennessey;  ; At the time of purchase, the only rust to be found on Ol' Blue was in the front suspension pan. This corrosion was due to battery acid runoff. It was a number of years before I had the funds to get the front end of the pan replaced but that was my solution. More important, following the repair, I switched over to a dry cell (wheel chair) battery. Although these batteries are warrented for only one year, it would take many batteries to equal the price of that pan section replacement. And THEY FIT THE BATTERY BOX !!!  (lengthwise perfect, width wise, they're a little narrow). Better still, I've replaced the battery only once in the last 7 years.

From: mackros; ; About question of the month, my 912 had a little rust on the right hand side near the rear flare(underneath the car), this rust do not affect the structure and I removed the zone and replace with a piece of fiber glass, it´s not the best solution but I think It was really fast to fix.

From: Boothbab; ; there was no rust and is none now either.

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